Friday, July 5, 2013

Day 68--July 4, 2013

          Hope you all had a great day.  Richard and I had a very nice day.  The race up Mount Marathon went well.  The youth winners were Lyon Kipsack (I think he is 17 years old).  His time was 27:03.  And Allison Ostrander (I think she was 16 or 17).  Her time 31:40.  Women's winner-- Christy Marvis with 53:20.  Male winner--Eric Strabel with 42:55.   It seems like there weren't as many racers this years as before.  There were a total of 211 finishers.  103 females.  108 males.  Average time 53:37.
500 pound brown bear crossing road ahead of us
On the way to Seward
          We only went down into Seward for a short time.  It's been around 48 degrees and drizzling rain all day.  We went back late in the evening to catch the firework show.  Since it doesn't get dark until midnight, that is when they usually set them off.  Unfortunately, we didn't get the memo.  Last night they had a Pasta Feed and fireworks display, while we were sleeping.  LOL.  Not sure which I hate missing the most--pasta? fireworks?  Oh, well.  I hope all of you saw beautiful fireworks in one way or another.
Flowers at Kenai Princess Wilderness Lodge

 
Butt of about a 500 pound brown bear
on road as we left the Princess Lodge
          I've taken a few picture here and there that I wanted to post at some time or other.  Today is the day.  I hope you enjoy them.

Beautiful Lobella at Chena Hot Springs


 

Princess Wilderness Lodge

 
Bronze Eagle Princess Lodge
 
One of many view on road into Seward

View from Ray's Seafood Restaurant
Resurrection Bay

Kenai Princess Wilderness Lodge



Until next time,
Dolores

Thursday, July 4, 2013

day 67--July 3, 2013

          We are in Seward waiting for the big Fourth of July celebration that takes place here every year.  There is a race up Mount Marathon.  Back in 1908 there was a bet that someone could or couldn't race to the top and back down in under an hour.  The race became an annual event since 1915.   Leading racers will usually reach the summit in 33-40 minutes at a rate of 2 mph.  Coming down, they will do it in 10-15 minutes at a rate of 12 mph.  One of the craziest things I've ever witnessed.  There are usually 400 men, 400 women and 200 juniors.  The juniors run first, then the women.  The men are last.  You can bet there will be lots of injuries at the finish line.  The massive crowd of spectators line the street like a parade route and cheer the entrants on.
          This will be the fourth time we've had the honor of being in Seward for this big day.  Seward is located on the Kenai Peninsula at the head of Resurrection Bay.  The bay and the river were both name by of Alexandr Baranov who was forced to retreat into the bay by a bad storm in the Gulf of Alaska.  When the storm was over, it was Easter Sunday.  So the bay and river were named in honor of that.  The opening of the film The Hunt for Red October was filmed in Resurrection Bay, with the bay serving as a stand-in for Russia's Murmansk Fjord.
          Tomorrow, after the big race and celebrations, a barge in Resurrection Bay will shoot off fireworks in honor of the 4th of July. 
          Tonight we ate at Ray's Seafood on the bay.  We had a view of the harbor and fjords across the bay.  The harbor is loaded with boats.  Fishing boats that go out on day tours of halibut fishing, boats to take tours to see wildlife like sea lions and whales, privately owned sail boats. 
          For an appetizer, I had thin slices of baguette, whole sweet roasted garlic cloves you mash onto the crusty bread and spread on a little melted blue cheese sauce.  Fabulous!!!  I also had Alaskan King Crab cakes.  So good.
          I have several pictures I want to post and tell you about, but for some reason I can't send them to my computer.  I'll troubleshoot that tomorrow before we leave for the day.  I should have lots of pictures of the festivities tomorrow.

Until next time,
Dolores
   

Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Day 65--July 1, 2013

          One of the things Richard was looking forward to doing here in Alaska was going down to the community of Chitina.   I don’t know why, but it seems that most people pronounce it Chit-na.  Anyway, in 2008 when we were here, we had two other couples traveling with us.  Lyle and his family invited the guys to go to Chitina and go fishing on the Copper River.  It was an adventure like none other and Richard really wanted to do it again.  So we hung around Fairbanks at Gene’s house waiting for the conditions to be right.
          By that I mean a certain number of salmon running up the river and the water in the river to be a certain level.  Well, I’m not sure who counted all those fish, but the numbers were right, but the water level wasn’t.  So, we had to give up and head down to Anchorage to get lined up for our kids and grandkids to join us here in Alaska for a week.
          But I still want to tell you about these fishing trips.  They are based on federal and state rules and monitored by Alaska Department of Fish and Game; Division of Subsistence
          What is subsistence?  State and federal law define subsistence as the 'customary and traditional uses' of wild resources for food, clothing, fuel, transportation, construction, art, crafts, sharing, and customary trade. Subsistence uses are central to the customs and traditions of many cultural groups in Alaska, including Aleut, Athabaskan, Alutiiq, Euroamerican, Haida, Inupiat, Tlingit, Tsimshian, and Yup'ik.
          I admit I took that directly from the Internet.  But from what I’ve learned, all those listed above, plus anyone who has maintained a permanent residency for one year in Alaska are entitled to the benefits of the subsistence program.  The Copper River is approximately 287 miles long. It is glacier fed and drops an average of about 12 feet per mile, and drains into a basin that is a total of 24,400 square miles in area.  That is the size of West Virginia. The river has 13 major tributaries and runs at an average of 7 miles per hour.
          The rapidly moving water is loaded with sand and silt.  If someone fell into the river, they would only have a few minutes to be saved because the rushing water would move them down stream, the silt would collect in their life vests causing them to sink, and because of the temperature, hypothermia would set in quickly.
          There is popular contemporary dip net Sockeye Salmon fishery in Chitina, Alaska.  The time to catch only lasts two to three weeks, and is regarded as a subsistence fishery for Alaska residents only. Dip nets can also be used to scoop crabs in shallow water. The basket is made of wire or nylon mesh, rather than cloth mesh, since crabs fight, bite, twist and turn when they are caught.
          For subsistence purposes, an Alaskan can catch 15 salmon per person or 50 (?) per household with a dip net.  While we were in Fairbanks, Gene and Lyle and a couple of other men when down on the Copper River and used their dip nets.  Within a few of hours, they had all reached their limits.  They brought them home, cleaned, smoked and canned their catch to eat during the winter months.  A few days ago, I posted pictures of them canning their catch of the day.  I have some smoked salmon in the refrigerator.  It was smoked with cottonwood.  I’ve never had anything smoked with that wood (usually oak at home) and it is really, really good.  I make a dip with cream cheese and onion and ate it on brown rice and sweet potato crackers.  Yummy!
          By this weekend, I think they will be going to Chitina and setting up the village on the banks of the Copper River.  Then they will scoop up their catch in a fish wheel. A fish wheel is a device which operates like a water-powered mill wheel. It has baskets and paddles attached to a floating dock. The wheel rotates by the stream current.  The baskets on the wheel capture fish, and then drop them into a holding tank.
          They set up a village (tents, sinks, grills) so they can clean the different types of salmon as the holding tanks get full.  Copper and Yukon Rivers are the only place the fish wheels are allowed.  And they are only allowed for subsistence use.  With a fish wheel, they are allowed 200 per person or 500 per household.  If you have three or four households working this one wheel, you can see why they need a couple of days and a temporary village set up near the bank.
          Just one more note on this.  No one but the Alaskans is allowed in the boat when they are netting or using the fish wheel.  But the boat Gene and Lyle use has seats attached to the side of the boat where non-residents can sit and watch and take pictures.  These seats hang out over the COLD, RAPID-MOVING GLACIER FED COPPER RIVER.
Here's some pictures of their trip to the Copper River when we were there.
Lyle's dog sitting in seat hanging over the edge of boat.
Lyle dipping snow to ice down salmon
 
         

Lyle dip netting on Copper River

         















 In 2008, when Richard, Jack Dickson and Tom Neal went on this excursion, Richard passed on riding in the extended seat, but our good ol’ buddy Jack (he fears nothing) thought it was the greatest ride ever.  He got some great pictures, too. 
 P.S.  We just found out that another one of the kids will be coming to visit.  My stepson Robert will be visiting between Ryan and Brian’s visit.  Since we will be spending 3 weeks with the others on the Kenai Peninsula, we plan to go north to Denali National Park for a few days with Robert.  I’m glad.  I didn’t think we were going to get to visit the park this trip.  Yay!!
Mountain along the Copper River
 
Fish Wheel
 
Until next time,
Dolores     

Saturday, June 29, 2013

Day 62--June 28, 2013

     Happy birthday to two special guys--Richard's brother, Ronnie and our baby boy, Brian.  38 years old today.  Doesn't seem possible.  Love you both and hope you had a great day.
     We finally left Fairbanks about 5:00 this afternoon.  We traveled 114 miles to a campground near the entrance of Denali National Park.  It took about three hours because there are forest fires causing smoke hazards and a patch of road construction we had to wait for the pilot truck to lead us through, but it wasn't too bad.
      We are only going to stop over here for the night, and tomorrow we'll be going into Anchorage to another friend's place for two days.  That friend, Tony, won't even be there, but when he stayed with us a couple of times last winter, he made sure Richard knew where his place was and even did arial views on the computer to show him right where to park.  He talked a lot about his place and I'm really looking forward to getting there.
     We had a really good time in Fairbanks, but I'm looking forward to cooler weather.  Where we are now is like 20 degrees cooler than Fairbanks.  There is a lot of smoke outside, but the mountains are beautiful.  Denali National Park is the park where Mt. McKinley is located.  Hope to get some pictures of the beautiful area tomorrow.

Until next time,
Dolores  

Friday, June 28, 2013

Day 61--June 27, 2013


          Today I had planned to catch up many things because we hope to leave Fairbanks sometime tomorrow.  Every evening, I cook enough so that Lyle and Gene can eat with us.  After all, we are parked in their yard, so I feel it’s the least we can do.  I had everything I needed to cook dinner for us.  No trips to the store.  I intended to get my laundry caught up, clean the motor home, and organize it for travel.
          I was taking my time, relaxing in my nightgown, and catching up on emails.  I was talking to my cousin on the phone when Richard (who I thought had gone to town) sticks his head in the door and yells, “Are you dressed?”  I say no.  He says, “Put your robe on.  Lyle wants to talk to you a minute.”
          I disconnect my call with Sandy, and go put my robe on.  When I get back to the living room area, Lyle says he has a big favor he’d liked to ask of me.  I couldn’t imagine what it was, but I couldn’t think of anything he could ask that I wouldn’t do.  He told me that this friends Bernie and Connie Karl who own the Chena Hot Springs Resort, would be coming by around six with a couple the Karl’s were taking to the airport around 10:30.  Lyle wanted to know if he could show them our bus and if I would bake another cake like I did last night so they could have dessert and coffee.  I said of course.  I had planned to make a coconut cream pie for dessert, but I had everything I needed to make another George Peanut Butter Fudge Cake.
         Somewhere in the background I heard a voice say do you think they might eat dinner with us, too?  I swear I think Richard said it, but he swears it was me.  Not sure, but it was 12:30pm and they would be arriving about five and a half hours.  I put the cake on to bake.  Cleaned the bedroom. (I had to put the sorted clothes back into the hamper.  Laundry would have to wait.  I cleaned the bathroom and then clean the entire kitchen and set the table.  I made sweet iced tea.  I searched my freezer and cabinets.  I scratched my head and finally I faced the fact I’d have to go to town to the grocery store. 
          I did that and was back at the bus cooking by 4:00.  Dinner was ready at 6:00, but they were running a few minutes late.  By 6:30, everyone was filling their plates and bellies with Panko/apricot chicken, Kathy’s potatoes, fresh green beans, cracker salad, cream cheese crescent rolls.  Oh, yeah and Georgia Peanut Butter Fudge cake.  I was pretty happy.  It all went together as if I’d been planning it for weeks.
          Bernie and Connie and their friends Ty and Sarah along with us and Lyle and Gene sat for a couple of hours exchanging stories.  Bernie is pretty interesting and funny.  He told a couple of stories I feel would fit right into Bertie’s world.  I’ll save some of them for another day.
         After they left, Richard helped me clean the kitchen which was rough on him because his back is still a little touchy.  I was pretty tired from my cooking marathon, so I appreciated the help.  Around midnight, we decided to go to the Transfer Site one more time since we will probably be leaving tomorrow.  Check out the picture below.  It was inevitable.  There was the coolest Christmas tree complete with lights.  I admit it, I caved.
 
I’m also posting a few pictures of Lyle and Gene preparing salmon in jars to be canned in large canning pressure cookers.  It’s pretty interesting what they do to catch their limit under the subsistence program here in Alaska.  I’ve been researching online and talking to everyone I can about the way it all works.  Over the next day or two, I hope to do a blog about the fishing experience for resident of the state of Alaska.
Gene and salmon

 
Preparing salmon in jars to be canned.
 

Lyle putting lids on jars of fish
Getting ready to can them.
 
Until next time,
Dolores
 

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Day 59-June 25, 2013


Today I scored some alone time.  That’s a rare event, but I had some errands to run.  The first important task I did was to stop by Barnes & Noble.  Dirty work, but someone had to do it.  And, I was the person for the job.  Right in the middle of the store was a round fireplace with a large hearth around it.  All the over-stuffed chairs were filled with people reading and propping their feet up while the fire blazed.  I could just imagine that as my hideout when the weather outside was a little colder.  I loved it.  I picked up the other books in Sharon Sala's Rebel Ridge series.  I read the 3rd one first, ('Til Death) but it didn't matter that it was the last one.  It definitely stood alone.  I liked the other members of Meg's family and really wanted to know their stories, too.
Fireplace at Barnes & Noble
Fairbanks Alaska
Not far from where we are staying here in Fairbanks is the Large Animal Research Station at the University of Alaska. Each year, thousands of visitors take tours of the 134-acre site set up for nutritional, behavioral and physiological studies of muskoxen, caribou and domestic reindeer.  It’s a cool place.
This post isn’t going to be long because my evening was interrupted by . . . well, take a look at this picture of Mr. I Can Ride That Muskox.
Mr. I Can Ride That Muskox
Okay, so that’s not what really happened, but Richard thought it sounded more masculine than Mr. I Bent Over To Clip My Toenails and Pulled A Muscle.

For those of you who have asked--this is
what 3:15 in the morning looks like in Alaska
Until next time,
Dolores

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Day 58--June 24, 2013

          I hope you enjoyed the pictures of the Aurora Ice Hotel.  BTW, I learned something today from Lyle.  Believe me, I learn a lot from him.  He is a wealth of knowledge about almost every subject, and he makes it interesting to hear him tell the stories in his own words.  Everyone around here calls him the Old Homesteader.  Anyway, he said that the animal fur used for the seats in the bar is caribou.  Each hair is hollow and helps keep your tukus separated from the ices. 
          We had time to look around, then we were called into a very nice dining hall where we were treated to prime rib, baked halibut, baked potatoes, lettuce, tomatoes and cucumbers straight from the green houses where they grow vegetables all year round.   They had a sheet cake with a fisherman and stream.  They also had the neatest candle.  It spun, played Happy Birthday To You, and the center candle lights smaller ones on the petals. 
 


 
Birthday cake.  The red flower is the singing and spinning candle.
Dining Hall


Dining Hall
Richard said, "Close your eyes.  I have a big
surprise for you."  I turned around and came nose to nose
with Bullwinkle.
 
Lyle explaining something to Richard
Good Luck.  :-) 


Massage Hut
The healing waters of Chena Hot springs


          Today, back a Gene's house, the celebration continued.  We had fresh, fried halibut, smoked salmon, and all kinds of trimmings.  I fixed peach dumplings and bacon crisps.  Even though Lyle lives in Homer, he has heavy ties here in Fairbanks.  Friends and neighbors (also friends) came to Gene’s house to eat the yummy meal and visit with Lyle, who will probably be going home next week.  He always drives the eight hour drive by himself.   It was really nice to meet everyone and listen to the stories they told.

Lyle and his son, Gene

The Birthday Boy

Until next time,
Dolores